Rethinking Age-Old Beauty Products

If you took a peek into your grandmother's makeup drawer, you may have found products like the Coty Loose Face Powder, Avon Here's My Heart fragrance, Yardley false lashes, or Noxzema Skin Cream.  Many of these age-old beauty products still effectively keep women looking youthful, healthy, and fashionable today.  But we've come a long way in improving the efficacy of these products as well as in phasing out some of the harmful cosmetic ingredients that were used decades ago.  

Here are some healthy substitutes for some vintage cosmetics that remain classic beauty product staples for women today:

1.  Cold Cream is a rich, creamy emulsion composed of water, fatty acids, beeswax, and mineral oil.  Thus, it is ultra hydrating and smoothing.  There is currently quite a selection of cold cream derived products (creams, lip salves, cleansers, etc.) on the market. 

Out with the old...Pond's Cold Cream Cleanser
Although ancient empires like the Greek empire used early version of cold cream, it was made popular by Pond's.  Women in the early and mid-twentieth century used to apply it before they went to bed to cleanse skin (remove makeup and dirt) and provide deep hydration.  You could rinse if off to reveal instantly soft, smooth, and radiant skin or leave it on to seal in moisture.  The more modern version of this product is the Cold Cream Cleanser, which you typically do wash off immediately.  The problem with this product is that it contains a potentially harmful paraben as well as mineral oil. 

And in with the new Avene Cold Cream Ultra Rich Soap-Free Cleansing Bar ($9 on dermstore.com)
Although I don't know of any liquid cold cream cleansers that are toxin-free, Avene makes a cold cream bar that does all that the Pond's product does...gently cleanses, soothes irritation, and traps in moisture for supple, soft skin.


2.  Talcum Powder is finely milled talc that is used to absorb moisture and reduce shine.

Out with the old...Johnson's Baby Powder Original
When we think of talcum powder, we think of Johnson's.  We used it as a baby and then used it on our own babies.  The two ingredients in this product are talc and fragrance.  I must say that I do like the smell of it, but it can be irritating to sensitive skin.  Also, there is growing research on the potential dangers of talc in beauty products.  Talc is a mineral used in powders to help the skin with absorption and to decrease caking.  Studies on animals have shown that frequent inhalation of talc can increase your risk of respiratory issues such as lung tumors.  Although limited research has been conducted on this claim, some scientists believe that talc can increase your risk of developing ovarian cancer.

And in with the new...Burt's Bees Baby Bee Dusting Powder ($6 in drugstores)
To play it safe, try Burt's Bees baby powder.  It has the absorbancy that regular baby powder has, but does the job using corn starch.  It's more natural than talc and just as effective for reducing shine, preventing heat rashes, absorbing dampness, etc.


3.  Creme to Powder Foundation is a creme compact foundation to allow for easy application and buildable coverage.  It transforms into a powder when it comes in contact with your skin for a light, airy feel.  

Out with the old...Max Factor Pan-Cake Makeup
Max Factor launched its famous Pan-Cake Makeup with the positioning that it was the foundation of Hollywood.  It actually lasted until only a few years ago, when it was discontinued.  The brand even featured the glamorous Judy Garland as the ambassador for the product.  Basically, Pan-Cake Makeup was a mixture of a pigmented powder and a dehydrated cream.  You simply had to put some water on the sponge and swirl it around in the pan to loosen and apply the makeup.  Afterwards, it dried as a powder that felt light on skin.  At the time, such a concept was really innovative and suitable for women, who wanted that gorgeous Judy Garland complexion without having to pile on heavy layers of foundation.  In addition to the fact that this product no longer exists, it also contained toxins like talc.

And in with the new...Benefit Some Kind-A Gorgeous ($30 at Sephora)
Benefit makes a creme to powder foundation (goes on like a creme foundation and feels like a powder on your skin), but without the talc.  It is also oil-free and settles to a natural finish.  And it certainly blends into skin better than the original Pan-Cake makeup did.    


4.  Petroleum Jelly is essentially mineral oil in a thick jelly form that can help heal and soothe skin.

Out with the old...Vaseline 100% Pure Petroleum Jelly

Most of us probably have a tub of Vaseline, the creators of petroleum jelly, in our medicine cabinets as a go to quick-fix for everything from dry hands to cracked lips to diaper rashes.  The problem with petroleum jelly is, as I mentioned, that is indeed a quick-fix and doesn't necessarily fix the problems causing dry skin.  Rather than getting absorbed by the skin to soften skin from within, petrolatum and mineral oil sit on top of skin, creating a lubricating barrier.  Rubbing some Vaseline over your dry skin will temporarily fix the problem, but won't help heal or prevent dry skin in the long-term.

And in with the new...Alba Multipurpose Un-Petroleum Jelly ($6 at Whole Body)
Alba makes a play on petroleum jelly with their un-petroleum jelly.  It has the same jelly feeling that Vaseline has, and you can use it for all the same purposes.  Instead of using mineral oil, this product is formulated with beeswax and natural oils like coconut oil and castor seed oil to go beyond hydrating to nourishing skin as well.  Plus, these ingredients can penetrate skin (unlike mineral oil) and help heal dry skin from within so that it goes away for good! 


5.  Red Lipstick is a classic, lovely lip shade.  Before HD TV, old Hollywood actresses would wear it because it was bold enough to appear on camera.  Before Crest White Strips, women used to wear red lipstick because the brightness contrasted the color of their teeth, making them appear whiter.  It was the color of choice many of our grandmothers, and it still makes an elegant statement today.

Out with the old...Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Cherries in the Snow
One of the first major color cosmetics brands, Revlon, was founded in 1931 by Charles Revson.  The brand's core competency has always been lipsticks, and their famous shade is Cherries in the Snow, a deep/bright red.  It's a very iconic Liz Taylor, Hita Hayworth type of shade that is still a best-seller today.  However, the problem with many of Revlon's products including their Super Lustrous lipsticks is that they contain BHT. 

And in the with the new...BITE Beauty Luminous Creme Lipstick in Zivoli ($24 at Sephora)
These lipsticks provide the same rich color, beautiful satin finish, and hydration that the Revlon lipsticks have.  However, the BITE Beauty lipsticks are natural and free of toxic ingredients.  They are even loaded with the powerful antioxidant, resveratrol (from grapes). With 25 shades to choose from, Zivoli seems to be the one that's most similar to Cherries in the Snow.


The truth is many of these products have survived the years because they still do the trick.  So, whether we like it our not, our makeup drawers probably look similar to those of our grandmothers and mothers....but hopefully with some new and improved products. 

Treating Acne Naturally - Is it possible?

If you have oily, blemish-prone skin like mine, preventing pimples is a big part of your skincare process.  One myth that I hear a lot is that you can't treat acne with natural products.  What's my take on the subject?  I think that you can't treat severe acne (the type that requires prescription ointments or pills) holistically.  But mild to moderate acne, which you would typically battle with your classic over-the-counter Oxy, Stridex, Clearasil, etc., can definitely be treated with natural products.  In fact, if typical drugstore products aren't working for you, you should try using natural products before you see a dermatologist about prescription options.  

Why?  The problem with many over-the-counter mass acne products is that they can be very aggressive.  In fact, many of them use sulfates or alcohol as agents to dry oil and clean pores, but they are often so harsh that they can strip your skin of even good, natural oils.  As a result, your skin can become irritated and inflamed, stimulating the formation of pimples.  Overdrying your skin by using these products can also lead your skin to overproduce oil.  All of these factors may prevent typical drugstore products from clearing up blemishes and may actually cause acne to get even worse.

Natural products are often more gentle on the skin that is prone to acne.  Many of them utilize natural forms of the synthetically derived acne-fighting ingredients found in Stridex or Oxy products minus the harsh cleaning and drying agents and minus the fragrance and other irritants.   

Understanding some of the main natural-acne fighting ingredients can help you choose the right products for yourself.  

Let's start with the basics:

Breakouts = Oil + Bacteria + Inflammation + Clogged Pores

So...to treat breakouts, target each of these "risk factors" for acne.

Fight bacteria...by cleaning

There are many natural ingredients including aloe, turmeric, tea tree oil, juniper oil, and honey, which have natural antiseptic properties.  In other words, they help naturally prevent bacteria-causing acne from mingling on the skin.  A popular, natural, over-the-counter product is the Burt's Bees Herbal Blemish Stick ($7.99 in drugstores), which contains both tea tree and juniper oil.  These powerful plant-derived oils will help clean up what your cleanser may have missed.  Then, treat your skin to the cooling Jason Pure Natural Moisturizing Creme with 84% aloe vera ($6.42 in drugstores) to keep your face extra clean.

Fight oil...by purifying

Some of us, usually younger women, have oily skin.  It's nothing to fret about because oil is a naturally produced substance in the skin that keeps it supple and elastic (in fact oilier skin types tend to age better).  However, in order to keep those pores clean and free of impurities and excess oil, look for detoxifying ingredients like ginger, apple, and baking soda.  One of my favorite purifying moisturizers is the JUARA Skincare Sweet Black Tea & Ginger Mattefying Moisturizer ($49 on dermstore.com).  I also happen to love the Suki Bio-Active Purifying Face Serum ($82.95 at Whole Body).  The apple is great for clarifying pores, and I especially love the slight fruity smell and the weight-less, soft feel.

Prevent clogged pores...by exfoliating

In addition to impurities, dead skin cells can clog your pores.  Exfoliating is essentially ridding your skin of dead skin cells and other debris. Hydroxy acids, primarily salicylic acid and retinol help your skin turnover cells more efficiently and shed the dead ones. Plants such as willowbark are natural sources of salicylic acid.  So, try the Neutrogena Naturals Purifying Face Cleanser ($7.99 at drugstores) with willowbark.  You can also try following it up with the MyChelle Clear Skin Serum ($33 at Whole Body), which features retinol as a debri-removing ingredient.

Prevent inflammation...by calming

In order to prevent pores from becoming inflamed, opt for products that will minimize irritation with natural calming/anti-inflammatory qualities, despite dirt and oil build-ups on the skin.  For example, ingredients like rose, teas, and rice bran will soothe your skin and reduce any signs of skin conditions.  The Melvita Damask Rose Floral Water ($25 at Whole Body) can be used as a hydrating toner to tighten pores and refresh your skin. Or try the JUARA Skincare Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner ($29 on dermstore.com).  With rice bran, anti-oxidant packed teas, AND hylauronic acid, (which naturally helps skin retain moisture), this toner will help improve almost any skin condition and most definitely keep your skin clear and soft.

Ideally, a multi-pronged attack to fight acne in multiple ways would be your best bet against

pimples.  In other words, having a skincare routine that incorporates ingredients that specifically target each causal factor (oil, bacteria, clogged pores, inflammation) is often an effective strategy.  My favorite natural acne-fighter has to be the JUARA Skincare Rose & Willowbark Blemish-Free Mask ($35 on dermstore.com).  I use it not only as a mask to prevent breakouts, but also as a spot treatment (just dab a little on your skin before bedtime and your zit will be zapped by the morning).  This product combines a key calming ingredient with an exfoliating ingredient, which has made it a really effective acne fighter for me, personally.  And, I often find that acne-fighting products can be strong and drying.  However, the JUARA mask is really gentle and non-drying. 

So don't be fooled!  There are a lot of really great natural products that are efficacious in battling acne.  What are your favorites?